Backstage Beauty at Marc Jacobs: Pale Fire


What was the precise hair color of the sylphlike model who opened Marc Jacobs's show tonight? Was it lavender, was it rose, or was this some trick of the lights? According to Victoria Hunter, the woman responsible for the eerily beautiful shade, it was "a dusty, vintage, mushroom-y pink with a little bit of violet behind it."

She'd spent the days before the show dyeing some 60 wigs to the designer's specifications in collaboration with the backstage hairstylist Guido Palau.

Each hair-piece was tailored to create a head-to-toe monochromatic look and ranged from muted milky brown to silvery iridescent ash blonde. "It's about tonality. Everything matches," said Palau, who'd been looking "at makeup swatches, the way they run from pale to pink," with the designer, as well as pictures of the actress Jessica Lange and the iconic fashion editor Polly Mellen. "It's a very American idea of hair," he continued of its sleek, ultrablunt shape, which he created using Redken Satinwear and the company's Control Addict hair spray. "But it's also a little bit off."

Across the room, the makeup artist François Nars was channeling a similarly cool neutral palette. "Beige, gray, camel, chocolate—there are a lot of powdery colors and silks in the show," he said of blending and contouring using an arsenal of NARS eye shadows, blushes, and lip colors. Even models' nails, painted in monochromatic shades from Jacobs's self-titled beauty line that matched the collection, were spot on. "We started with about 50 and narrowed it down to five," said the manicurist Marian Newman, adding with a twinkle, "Marc's a bit of a perfectionist."

By: Catherine Piercy ​

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